| Ski Vice |
T0146Y |
T0149-50 |
T0149-90 |
A 3 piece vice is the way to go. If you have that covered, you are all set. |
| Iron |
T75110 |
T73100 |
T72110 |
Please buy an iron WITH temperature controls. A basic iron w/temperature controls will work great. The T72100 is overkill, but hey it's your money.
PS - Last year J4's and older should be able to wax ski's!!! |
| 3 Degree File Guide |
SVST Aluminum Swix or T0222 |
More than one |
One per file/stone |
This is the most important thing you will buy. It is nice to have more than one when you move between files/stones, etc. However, that is pure luxury. Maybe another one next year? |
| Spring Clamp |
Home Depot |
Home Depot |
TA022 |
Any small spring clamp will do the job. |
| .05 Degree Base File Guide |
N/A |
TA005 |
SVST |
The shop can set a .05 degree base bevel with a "ceramic tune". Doing this by hand is tricky and can result in to much bevel making the ski hard to keep sharp. If you do base bevel by hand, only do this one time after the ski is stone ground (and only if you had the shop stone grind the ski flat). |
| Sidewall Tool |
Borrow |
TA101 |
SVST |
The sidewall tool rips the plastic away from the edge so your file cuts clean without getting gummed up. If you borrow one with a "straight" edge, you can pull away enough material to last you several tunes. With the round edge, you will need to do this every few tunes. |
| 2nd Cut File |
T0106X-120B |
T0106X-120B |
T0106X-120B |
If you buy only one file, get a 2nd cut file. It will take longer than a 1st cut and maybe you will use the stone more w/out using fine cut, but your edge will still turn out great. |
| 1st Cut File |
N/A |
T-107X |
T-107X |
For setting edge angle and ripping steel quickly for a sharp edge (remember, this isn't for a daily tune, that steel needs to last all year). |
| Fine Cut File |
N/A |
T0104X-120B |
T0104X-120B |
For minor touch up and final pass. |
| File Card |
Home Depot |
Home Depot |
Home Depot |
For cleaning the file. Get one with a stiff bristle brush on the back side for cleaning diamond stones. |
| Medium Course Diamond Stone |
Moonflex - Yellow |
Moonflex - Yellow |
Moonflex - Yellow |
A great all around stone, use before you file to knock down big burs and after you file to knock down the little burs the file leaves. |
| Extra Course Diamond Stone |
N/A |
N/A |
Moonflex - Black |
Use when you want a quick hit w/out filing or for a few passes after filling before going to finer stones. |
| Course Diamond Stone |
N/A |
Moonflex - Red |
Moonflex - Red |
Usually the 1st stone after filing. |
| Fine Diamond Stone |
N/A |
Moonflex - White |
Moonflex - White |
The "final" diamond stone before the ceramic (unless you spring for the ultra fine). |
| Ultra Fine Diamond Stone |
N/A |
N/A |
Moonflex - Blue |
Final diamond stone, you can skip this and just use the ceramic, but if you have time and money, knock yourself out. |
| Stone Lubricant |
Water |
Water |
Secret Sauce |
Diamond stones last longer when they cut wet. You can buy a special cutting liquid or use water. |
| Ceramic Stone |
T0998 |
T0998 |
T0998 |
This stone is key to keeping a sharp edge. This is the final stone used on the edge. It also the only stone I recommend using on the base. Take a few passes on the side w/a guide and free hand the base. It doesn’t feel like it does anything, but it's got mojo. You can go crazy with more than one grit ceramic, but a fine grit alone should do the job. |
| Soft Gummy |
(use scrap emery sandpaper) |
T0992 |
T0992 |
Soft stone for de-tuning tips/tails and for rust removal. A little scrap of sandpaper is also good for de-tuning, it's definitely better than a ski pole. |
| Hard Gummy Stone |
N/A |
N/A |
T0994 |
For polishing the edges after the ceramic stone. Also good for removing rust. |
| Hard Stone |
N/A |
N/A |
T0127 |
I have not used it, but this stone is supposed to get rid of "case hardening", I am going to try it this year. |
| 4mm Wax scraper |
T0824 |
T0824 |
T0824 |
Keep it sharp w/the panzer or buy in bulk!!! If you are going to scrape boots at the top, don't use this one, buy a thick scraper just for boots or use last years.
PS - Last year J5's and older can scrape ski's!!! |
| Panzer File |
Home Depot |
T0108 |
T0108 |
Use this to keep your scraper sharp. Hold you scraper 90 degrees to the file (file resting flat on a non-slip surface) and pull it across the file. This will keep it sharp and you will do a much better job scraping in less time. You can buy fancy scraper sharpeners, but the panzer file will work better for less money and can be used for other jobs. You can also use a course drywall screen to sharpen the scraper or for a final pass after the panzer. |
| Medium Bronze Brush |
T0162B |
T0182B |
T0182B |
Use before and after waxing. Great all around brush for opening the ski to wax and then getting extra wax off the base (wax is fast in the ski, not on top of it). |
| Blue Nylon |
Spring for a cheap nylon brush if you can |
T0160B |
T0186B |
Use as a final brush unless you get fancy w/pure fluoro's. If you are just buying one brush, buy the medium bronze. If you can swing it, it's better to have both (or more). |
| Course Bronze Brush |
N/A |
T0158B |
T0181B |
Good to use before waxing and as 1st brush after for hard wax. |
| Steel Brush |
N/A |
N/A |
T01800B |
For "refreshing" the base after a grind or every now and then. Who are you kidding, you don't need it, but hey it's a tool. |
| Horsehair |
N/A |
N/A |
T0157B |
100% Fluoro wax brush. I you are going to spend the big $'s on 100% Fluoro wax, why not go all out? |
| Fibertex |
N/A |
T267N |
T267N |
Combi pack is great for preparing new ski's after a stone grind to cut away base "hairs". I use an old brush to push the pad along the base, 20 passes per grit (3 grits in combi-pack). |
| Wax-BPP |
BP088180G |
BP088-180 |
MB077-180 |
Base preparation wax is key after stone grinding and with new ski's. The BP088 is economical. Use this at least once after each grind, more is better (scrape and brush between applications of wax). |
| Wax 32-50F |
CH10 -180G |
CH10 -180G |
CH10 -180G |
Training wax and race day wax for J4 and under. |
| Wax 25-35F |
CH8 -180G |
CH8 -180G |
CH8 -180G |
Training wax and race day wax for J4 and under. |
| Wax 18-28F |
CH7- 180G |
CH7- 180G |
CH7- 180G |
Training wax and race day wax for J4 and under. |
| Wax 10-21F |
CH6-180G |
CH6-180G |
CH6-180G |
Training wax and race day wax for J4 and under. |
| Wax -25-14F |
CH4-60G |
CH4-60G |
CH4-60G |
Training wax and race day wax for J4 and under. Smaller bar because you don't use it often. Scrape when wax is a little warm, else it chips. |
| Wax 32-50F |
N/A |
LF10 -180G |
HF10 -180G |
Race day wax |
| Wax 25-35F |
N/A |
LF8 -180G |
HF8 -180G |
Race day wax |
| Wax 18-28F |
N/A |
LF7- 180G |
HF7- 180G |
Race day wax |
| Wax 10-21F |
N/A |
LF6-180G |
HF6-180G |
Race day wax. More fluoro's make less of a difference w/cold snow so you could skip this purchase and use CH for cold weather if you want to use $'s wisely. |
| Wax -25-14F |
N/A |
LF4-60G |
HF4-60G |
Race day wax. More fluoro's make less of a difference w/cold snow so you could skip this purchase and use CH for cold weather if you want to use $'s wisely. |
| 100% Fluoro |
N/A |
N/A |
Event Specific |
Unless you are swimming in the green backs, I would only use this for "big events", State Championships, JO's, etc. Buy when you know the temperature/snow conditions for the event in question. Over the years you will build a collection because you will only use what you purchase on "special occasions". You might also need to get a special cork/brush (when using a powder, I recommend ironing it in w/1 pass). |
| Break Holders |
Anything |
Anything |
Anything |
Elastics from Broccoli bunches, bike inner tubes cut into rings, what ever holds them back. |
| Refrigerator |
N/A |
Stocked |
Stocked for friends and neighbors |
Users beverage of choice. |